FAQ

A web service that turns a 3D model (STL, 3MF or STEP) into a file for your 3D printer (G-code). No slicer to install and no profiles to tune: pick the printer, material and quality and download the finished file.

It can scale the model and split a large model into parts with connectors.

The service used to be called Extrudo (extrudo3d.cz). Accounts, jobs and the catalog stay as they were.

The service is free during the trial. If paid features ever arrive, they will be clearly marked before you pay for anything.

To upload a model, yes, so your jobs and files are stored for you alone. Sign in with a password, an e-mailed code or Google. The catalog can be browsed without signing in.

STL and 3MF (and STEP/IGES, see below), up to 500 MB per file. Your browser compresses the model before sending; compressed it must be at most 50 MB.

CAD models as STEP (.step, .stp) and IGES (.iges, .igs): your browser converts them to an STL mesh in millimetres (the unit is read from the file), nothing is sent to a third-party server. The conversion runs in your browser and can take tens of seconds for a big assembly; the limit is 100 MB.

3D scans from phones: USDZ, OBJ, GLB and glTF packed in a ZIP (Scaniverse, Reality Composer, Polycam). Your browser converts them to STL at real size; check the size in the preview. How to scan is in the next question.

An OBJ stores neither units nor which way is up. We guess them like for a scan (Y up, a small model is in metres); for a model from CAD, choose millimetres, centimetres, metres or inches and Z up in the menu below the file.

A model made of several files (e.g. ready parts from Printables) can be uploaded at once, up to 16 files. It is processed as one job and the parts are arranged on plates.

We can't open CAD programs' own formats (F3D, SLDPRT, SLDASM, IPT, CATPART) in the browser. Export the model as STEP (best) or 3MF and upload that. STEP carries units and exact surfaces; we turn it into a mesh.

G-code (.gcode, .bgcode) is already sliced for one printer and material, so it can't be re-sliced: upload the original model. Render a .scad file (OpenSCAD) with F6 and export STL or 3MF. Export VRML, DAE and OFF as STL, 3MF or OBJ.

Colours painted per triangle with the brush in a 3MF (Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer) print in colour on a printer with CANVAS: you map the file's colours to slots. On a single-colour printer it prints in the object's one colour and the painting is lost.

Scaniverse (iPhone and Android) does it for free. On an iPhone you can also use Apple's Reality Composer (Object Capture, newer iPhones). The free version of Polycam only exports glTF: upload the whole ZIP you get from the app.

Put the object on a table with a busy pattern (a newspaper, say), with even, soft light, and walk slowly around it at two or three heights. Shiny, transparent and plain white objects scan poorly. The inside of a mug or deep cavities come out worse than the outside.

Crop the surroundings (table, mat) in the app before exporting, or they get printed with the object. Export as GLB, OBJ or USDZ, or STL right away. A .reality file from Reality Composer is not a 3D model: it is an AR scene and can't be printed.

We try to close the open bottom where the object stood. A mesh with more detail than a printer can print gets simplified. Measure the object and compare it with the size in the preview; adjust it under Adjustments → Size if needed.

Scale it down under Adjustments → Size, including a “Fit the bed” button.

Or let it be split into parts (at most 8). Cut faces can get holes for connectors: pieces of 1.75 mm filament, or printed pins sliced as an extra part.

Yes: set “Copies” for each file (at most 20 pieces per job). We arrange them on the bed; those that don't fit get another plate with its own printer file. The time, grams and cost estimate covers all pieces.

The pieces print together, layer by layer. If one comes loose during the print, the nozzle can drag it into the others and ruin the whole plate; watch the first layers. Copies can't be combined with splitting into parts, the load setting or multi-colour printing.

Below the file you'll see its objects with their sizes. Untick the ones you don't want (say, only the head of a whole skeleton) and pick how to print: “As the author” = each plate of the file on its own, objects as the author laid them out; “Arrange automatically” = every object separately (with copies), arranged onto as few plates as possible; “Join into one model” is offered only for touching parts of one assembly.

Modifiers (regions with their own settings, e.g. more walls in one spot) aren't used yet and aren't printed as solids; cut-out shapes (engraved text) are subtracted from the model. Only an object that doesn't fit by itself can be split into parts.

Only if its licence allows it (e.g. CC0, CC BY, CC BY-SA) or you have the author's permission. You confirm this before every upload. Models in our catalog always have a licence that allows printing, and we credit their authors.

Printers: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2, Elegoo Centauri Carbon, Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro, Elegoo Neptune 4, Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Bambu Lab P2S, Bambu Lab P1S, Bambu Lab A1, Bambu Lab A1 mini, Creality K2 Plus, Creality K2 Pro, Creality K1 Max, Creality K1C, Creality Ender-3 / Ender-3 Pro, Creality Ender-3 V2, Creality Ender-3 V2 Neo, Creality Ender-3 S1, Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, Creality Ender-3 V3 SE, Creality Ender-3 V3 KE, Creality Ender-5 S1, Prusa MK4S, Prusa CORE One, Prusa MK3S/MK3S+, Anycubic Kobra 2, Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo, Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder X1, Artillery Genius Pro.

Beta (settings checked by slicing only, nobody has printed on them with Printypus yet): Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro, Elegoo Neptune 4, Bambu Lab P2S, Creality K2 Plus, Creality K2 Pro, Creality K1 Max, Creality K1C, Creality Ender-3 / Ender-3 Pro, Creality Ender-3 V2, Creality Ender-3 V2 Neo, Creality Ender-3 S1, Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, Creality Ender-3 V3 SE, Creality Ender-3 V3 KE, Creality Ender-5 S1, Prusa MK3S/MK3S+, Anycubic Kobra 2, Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo, Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder X1, Artillery Genius Pro.

Materials: PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU. Quality draft, standard or fine.

Yes. Save the filaments you own under “My filaments” in your account (material, maker and line, colour, price per kg). In the form, pick “My filament” and Printypus follows the maker's recommendation: temperatures, cooling and flow from the maker's profile instead of the printer's generic one. A switch turns it off.

Profiles from OrcaSlicer: Prusament, Bambu Lab, Elegoo, Creality, Polymaker, SUNLU, eSUN, Overture, COEX. From the makers' data sheets (marked “according to the maker”): Prusament, Alzament, Filament PM, Fillamentum, Spectrum. For those we take the printer's generic profile, move temperatures and cooling into the range the maker states and use the maker's density where it gives one. A brand in both lists uses OrcaSlicer's profile where it has one for the printer. They are not verified by printing yet.

You can set your own nozzle and bed temperature (within safe bounds for the material). The gram and cost estimate uses your filament's density and price. A maker that isn't listed: save the filament without one and the material's generic profile is used.

Write to contact@printypus.com. We add printers based on demand. Don't use G-code made for a different printer; dimensions, temperatures and commands may differ.

A typical model is done within a minute. Large models and splitting with connectors can take several minutes. The page updates by itself; no need to reload.

If processing is paused for a while, the job shows a notice. It stays in the queue and is processed as soon as possible.

A finished job shows instructions for your printer. In short: Bambu Lab prints 3MF files from a microSD card or via Bambu Connect, Prusa prints G-code from a USB drive (MK3S from an SD card) or via Prusa Connect / PrusaLink, Elegoo, Creality, Anycubic and Artillery print G-code from a USB drive or an SD card.

One-click sending to the printer isn't available yet.

A finished job with a 3MF (Bambu Lab, Elegoo printers) has an “Open in Bambu Studio” or “Open in OrcaSlicer” button. The slicer on your computer downloads the file itself and shows it with its print button; it has to be installed and the link works for 10 minutes.

PrusaSlicer only accepts such links from sites Prusa has approved; for Prusa printers download the G-code for now.

Yes, if the printer runs Klipper with Moonraker (Creality K2, Elegoo Neptune 4, Voron, Sovol, Qidi…) or OctoPrint, and only in Chrome or Edge 142+ on a computer. Firefox, Safari and phones block connections from a website to devices on your home network. The computer and the printer must be on the same network (not over a VPN). Bambu, Elegoo Centauri Carbon and Prusa don't print this way: use “Open in the slicer and print” or download the file.

1) Allow our site in the printer once. Moonraker: in Fluidd or Mainsail → Configuration → moonraker.conf, add the indented line https://printypus.com under cors_domains in the [authorization] section (exactly, no trailing slash; keep the lines already there), save and restart Moonraker. OctoPrint: Settings → API → tick Allow Cross Origin Resource Sharing (CORS) and copy the API Key.

2) Account → Printers → Add a printer: type, address on your home network (e.g. 192.168.1.50 from the printer's screen or your router), port (Moonraker 7125, through Fluidd/Mainsail 80, Creality K2 probably 4408 – unverified; OctoPrint 80 or 5000), API key (always for OctoPrint, for Moonraker only with sign-in enabled) and the printer profile. The browser asks whether the site may access devices on your local network → Allow. The address and key stay in this browser only and never reach our server.

3) Finished job → Print directly → go through the checklist → Send and print. The file goes from your browser straight to the printer and the print starts; it can only be stopped on the printer (screen, Fluidd, Mainsail, OctoPrint), not from our site. We only keep the outcome of the attempt, without the address or key.

If it doesn't work: after an accidental “Block”, click the icon left of the address → Site settings → Local network → Allow and reload the page. A CORS error = check the cors_domains line and restart Moonraker (OctoPrint: the CORS checkbox). The file was uploaded but the print didn't start = start it by hand from the printer's file list and let us know. Anyone on the same network who knows the printer's address can print on it without us: that's how Moonraker and OctoPrint work; Moonraker's sign-in limits it.

They are OrcaSlicer's estimates with your printer's profile. The real time can differ depending on firmware, printer settings and how long heating and calibration take.

G-code goes straight to the printer. The 3MF is the sliced project you can open in OrcaSlicer or Bambu Studio with a preview; Bambu Lab printers need it to print.

Only you; the operator looks at them only when fixing a problem. Uploaded models and generated files are used only to process your job and are never made available to other users. Details are in the Privacy policy.

Jobs and their results are deleted automatically 30 days after creation, uploaded models and photos after 7 days. To prepare an older job again, upload the file again. You can delete a job (on its detail page) or your whole account (on the Account page) at any time.

To share the queue fairly. The default limits are 3 jobs in progress and 50 uploaded files per 24 hours; as soon as a job finishes, you can upload another.

Printing more, e.g. for a company or school? Request an individual review on the Print jobs page and we'll raise your limits.

Write to contact@printypus.com and include a link to the job if the problem concerns a specific one.

A print grows layer by layer: the nozzle draws one horizontal slice, the bed moves and the next one is drawn. Layer height sets the quality (Fine = thinner layers, smoother surface, longer print). The bond between layers is the weakest spot of a part, which is why its orientation matters.

Walls (perimeters) are the lines the nozzle draws along the outline of the part in each layer. The default is 2 (about 0.8 mm), “Strong part” uses 4. More walls = a stronger, heavier part. A spot thinner than two lines prints as a single line and will be fragile.

The inside of a part isn't solid but filled with a pattern (grid, gyroid). Infill density is a percentage: 10 % is enough for figurines and decor, normal parts use 15 %, “Strong part” 30 %. Infill affects weight and print time; walls affect strength more.

Every layer needs something underneath. When a wall leans out more than about 45°, or starts in mid-air (a horizontal ledge), the nozzle draws “into the air”: the underside gets rough or droopy, or the print fails. Another orientation or supports fix it.

Supports are temporary columns or “trees” printed under overhangs so the layer has something to rest on. After printing they are broken off (pliers help) and leave a rougher spot. They cost time and filament, so we add them automatically only under real overhangs; models the author prepared without supports get none.

When a model doesn't fit the bed we cut it into parts. We can drill holes into the cut faces and join the parts with pins: either pieces of 1.75 mm filament (Ø 2 mm holes) or printed Ø 5 mm dowels. Pins keep the parts aligned while gluing. Where a part is too thin, pins are skipped.

The bed (build plate) is the heated plate the printer lays the first layer on. Its size sets the largest part (a bigger model gets scaled down or split). The first layer has to stick: a clean plate without fingerprints and the right plate type for the material (e.g. Textured PEI Plate on Bambu Lab).

G-code is a text file of printer commands (moves, temperatures, extrusion speed) produced by slicing the model. The printer reads it from a USB drive or card. Bambu Lab uses a 3MF project instead, which holds the G-code together with a preview and the settings.